JAPAN
KONICHIWA JAPAN
Read along to find out how we spent our month rugged up in Japan!
THIS ITINERARY COVERS:
NISEKO >> OSAKA >> KYOTO >> NAOSHIMA ISLAND >> HAKUBA >> TOKYO
General info
- The Japanese people- they are generally the nicest, politest, most helpful people I have ever met! Even if they cannot speak a word of English, they will do everything they can to help you!
- If you are uncomfortable having your child stared at, touched by and photographed by strangers (especially if your child is blonde) maybe avoid Japan HA!
- Ta-Q-Bin/Black Cat- these are both amazing services in Japan that allow you to send your luggage ahead of you! Speak to your concierge/someone at the hotel. It is generally about $25-30 per suitcase, takes 3 or so days and saves you from having to lug unnecessary luggage around!
- Be polite back- although Japan is generally very busy it is extremeley efficient because everyone is polite and knows how to wait their turn. Queue up with everyone else and don’t push in!
- Eating and drinking- people do not eat and drink on the trains here (excluding the shinkansens- you can eat there), so respect this and do the same
- Rubbish bins- public bins are the rarest thing in Japan (generally because people don’t eat and drink much in public) but there is no litter to be seen. Take a bag in your backpack/day bag to dispose your rubbish in later!
- No tipping- in Japan they don’t tip, so graciously accept your change when they give it to you, otherwise it gets awkward!
- Most taxis have automatic doors so let the driver open and close the door for you even if they don’t get out of the car
- Cash- a lot of places in Japan (especially restaurants) only accept cash, so make sure you are always carrying cash on you!
- 7/11, Lawsons and Family Mart- these shops are a life saver! They actually serve really good food, like rice triangles, chicken karage etc. and are great if you are traveling with little ones or need a snack/meal on the go!
- Japan Rail Pass- the jury is still out on this one! The Japan Rail Pass is a ticket that you can buy before you leave Australia that you pay for the amount of days required that lets you access the Japan Railway without buying any further tickets. We found this pass was great for the Shinkansen, but we found that a lot of the routes we took within cities didn’t allow this pass, it is mainly just for the JR lines. So there were actually lots of times that we still had to buy a ticket!
- Nappies- we found them quite difficult to find in Japan, not every convenience store sold them, so don’t let your nappy count dwindle to zero before looking for more (like we did)
HANDY PHRASES
Please not that this is not an official phonetic situation haha (just how I say it in my head)…
Daijoubu (“di-joe-boo”) - no worries/doesn’t matter/that’s fine
- For example if someone runs into you and is apologetic or they try to give you a receipt and you don’t want one
Arigatogozaimas (“ar-ee-gah-toe-goz-eye-mas”) - thank you very much
- Or less formally you can say arigato (“ar-ee-gah-toe”) - thank you
Konichiwa (“ko-nee-chee-wa”) - hello
Ohayogozaimasu ("o-hi-o-guz-i-mas")- good morning
- Or less formally ohayo ("o-hi-o") - morning
Toire dokodesu ka (“toy-re-doko-des-ka”) - where is the toilet?
Directions
Hidari- left
Migi- right
Mussugu- straight
Gomen'nasai (“go-men-na-sai”)- sorry
Sumimasen ("soo-mee-mah-sen")- excuse me
Hajimemashite - ("ha-gee-me-ma-shi-te") nice to meet you
NISEKO
* We spent 7 nights here *
Niseko is a snow town (during Winter) in Hokkaido, approximately 2.5hr drive from Sapporo airport.
NB: Sapporo has an absolutely incredible foodcourt on the second floor
It is very popular with Australians and has been developed a lot, meaning there are incredible restaurants etc. but if you are after a really authentic Japanese mountain experience, this isn’t the place for you!
We hired a car in Niseko which was amazing because it meant we could explore other mountains close by when Niseko got too busy or skied out!
Popular restaurants tend to book out before the snow season has begun so get in early!
Eat/drink
We would recommend going to Kutchan (main town outside of Niseko) when you get in and go to Lucky Supermarket to stock up on some goodies for your lodge.
Cafe If
- A dining experience only for those with patience, but so worth the wait!
- A tiny restaurant/house run by an elderly Japanese couple that is full of charm
- They make Italian food to order, it takes forever but tastes delicious
- I would recommend getting to the restaurant just before they open to ensure you get a table, the night we went it was us and one other table and they didn’t let anyone else in until we were finished
- The garlic bread is legit!! As is their pasta!
Bar Gyu (or the “Fridge”)
- A bar that is entered through a fridge door (ahmm great photo op)
- But inside is a beautiful small, tranquil bar
- Get there early (as it opens) if you don’t want to wait for a table
Tonzanken Ramen
- Classic and traditional ramen in the centre of town, open for lunch and dinner
- Often a queue but it tends to move pretty quickly and is worth the wait (make sure you give them your name before you start queueing up!)
Morning Owl Coffee Van
- A coffee van on the side of the road in the main street
- Good coffee in Niseko can be hard to come by but we found them consistent and they opened at 7.30am which was one of the earliest we could find!
Abucha 2
- Specialising in sukiyaki (Japanese hot pots) this restaurant is one of the most popular in town
- Would highly recommend booking here and if you don’t, you can line up from 5.45pm (they open at 6pm) and try and snag one of their walk in tables
Toshiro’s Bar
- A low key whiskey bar overlooking one of the ski runs, watch people stack while you sip away in the warmth
Cheese Tart Van
- I was a skeptic beforehand, but just try one for yourself!
Tsubara Tsubara
- This is a restaurant specialising in curry soup, something I had never tried before but is delicious!
Musu
- If you’re looking for a simple Western breakfast
Rocketto’s
- Bar and restaurant inside Maples
- Incredible views overlooking the main run
We didn’t eat/drink here but we hear it’s good
Bang Bang
- Super popular! Couldn’t get in as all booked out.
Do
Onsen
- No better way to relax/warm up after a day out in the snow
Otaru
- Take a day trip to Otaru a fishing village approximately 2 hours from Niseko
- There are amazing fish markets that have restaurants attached to the stalls for tasty fresh seafood and rice bowls
Day trips to other mountains
- If you have hired a car check out nearby mountains such as, Moiwa and Rusutsu
OSAKA
* We spent 2 nights here *
If we’re going to be completely honest, we were underwhelmed by Osaka. We found it a bit boring… sorry!
We stayed in Osaka for two nights in total and in hindsight would’ve just stayed in Kyoto and done a day trip to Osaka (as it is only approx. 30 mins away).
Stay
Hotel She
- A trendy boutique hotel about 3km from the hustle and bustle of Osaka
- Friendly staff, great coffee, nice amenities, but the rooms are very small
Eat/drink
Lilo Coffee Roasters
- Great local coffee roastery, serving tasty brews
West Wood Bakers
- Good if you’re looking for an “American” breakfast
Morning Glass Coffee
- Tasty coffee!
Do
Saturday’s NYC store + coffee shop
- Check out the Saturday’s NYC store in town. The Japanese are big on the surfing subculture.
- The design of the store is amazing, their apparel is really great and they serve up an excellent coffee (and treat) too!
- Also, a nice place to speak to locals, especially if you have a baby distracting them from their work!
Biotop
- A cool, multilevel boutique shopping centre with homewares, florist, apparel and cosmetics
Camel
- A super cute kids clothing store near Biotop (unfortunately no clothes small enough for Pops!)
Dotombori
- The main tourist precinct in Osaka (i.e. complete sensory overload)
- The thing to do in Dotombori is to try Takoyaki (octopus balls), we can’t say we loved them!! But may have just been the ones we had, give it a go none the less!
Orange Street
- The main shopping strip in Osaka
We didn’t do this here but we hear it’s good
Aquarium
Universal Studios
KYOTO
* We spent 6 nights here *
The city that stole our heart!
There’s not enough words to describe how much we loved Kyoto.
We felt that this city had the perfect balance of hustle and bustle, authentic culture and tranquility.
We stayed in Kyoto for six nights in total and could’ve stayed for many more, like forever okay bye!
Sorry, the amount of pics reflects how much we loved Kyoto!! Couldn’t narrow them down anymore!
Stay
The Granbell Kyoto
- We loved our stay at Granbell Kyoto!
- Such great value for money that we thought we had done the conversion wrong!
- Fabulous location in the middle of Gion, really beautiful onsen in the hotel and friendly staff
- Only downside was that because the bed was so amazingly large and luxurious, there was no space in the room for a portacot (Poppy is struggling to understand the downside.. she loved it!)
We didn’t stay here but we hear it’s good
The Ace Hotel Kyoto
Eat/drink
Monk
- Not only was our dinner at Monk the best meal of our trip, we both agreed it was one of our favourite dining experiences ever
- The restaurant is a short taxi drive out of town, in a quiet street along a little stream. It only seats 20 or so people, split up into two separate sittings. (We took the earlybird time of course)
- We sat at the bar and watched as Yoshihiro cooked an incredible 7 course set menu meal in his beloved pizza oven
- Unlike other set menu/degustation meals there was nothing intimidating about this experience. Yoshi showed incredible respect to all his produce (which he goes to the markets each morning to purchase), serving up at times simple but incredibly delicious meals.
- The final savoury course is pizza, with your choice of toppings, which was hands down one of the best pizzas I have ever eaten… yes in Japan! (Don’t judge me)
- The meal is approximately $100AUD per head, so not cheap but so god damn worth it! Need to book!
Muraji Ramen
- Best ramen of the trip!
- Muraji ramen is a small, but beautiful decorated restaurant in Gion specialising in chicken ramen! Seriously delicious!
- Have to wait for a table at times
Blue Bottle Kyoto
- Blue Bottle’s roastery in Kyoto is a beautiful space with a retail building and a cafe building with a lovely courtyard in between
- The staff were very friendly and the coffee was delicious
Gion Tanto
- The most delicious okonomoyaki either of us have ever eaten! I salivate thinking about it!
- We recommend the pork with kim chi okonomoyaki!
- Unfortunately we weren’t the only ones to know about this homely, seemingly unsuspecting restaurant, so you may have to wait for a table.
Weekenders Coffee
- Cutest coffee shop in the corner of a car park, serving delicious coffee roasted in Japan
Stardust
- A little while out of town Stardust was a truly unique experience
- A retail store at the front and an exhibition area (a ceramics display when we were there) out the back, the store is not lying when it states it is a shop of “beautiful things”
- They also have a small lunch menu, we had soup when we were there and everything was so beautifully thought out, tasted delicious and the space just felt so tranquil
% Arabica Arashiyama
- % Arabica have multiple locations in Kyoto, with their store in Arashiyama being the most famous
- Looking out over the water at Arashiyama, the setting is stunning and the interior/design of the store is one of the most beautiful stores I have ever seen
- But… we are going to be controversial here and state that we didn’t like the coffee! And we tested it out at another % Arabica and our opinion stuck! Sorry!
Iroha North
- Incredible sukiyaki (hot pot) restaurant in Gion
- A cultural experience where you get your own private dining area, sit on tatami mats with your own hot plate and are served by waitresses in traditional dress (our waitress did not speak English, so we got in trouble for cooking some meat ourselves.. whoops)
- The food here is expensive, but we thoroughly enjoyed the experience and the food was delicious!
Walden Woods
- When you step inside Walden Woods you honestly feel like you have stepped into a fairytale. The all white interior and whimsical seating area upstairs feel utterly surreal and such a tranquil oasis from the city.
- Walden Woods serves coffees and small treats
Yakitori Tarokichi
- Small Yakitori (skewers) restaurant in Gion doing fuss free, delicious food on the Japanese grill
We didn’t eat/drink here but we hear it’s good
Kiln
- We were unable to visit as the restaurant is adults only
Do
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
(approx. 1hr train ride from Gion)
- An iconic attraction in Kyoto are the bamboo groves, but it is well worth exploring the whole area of Arashiyama as there are more beautiful sites than just the soaring bamboo
- Walk along the river to beautiful look out points with stunning views of Arashiyama
- Get a coffee at % Arabica, beautiful store (but our honest opinion on the coffee above)
- I would recommend getting to Arashiyama early to avoid the crowds at
the bamboo groves
- There are nice food options in this area for lunch after (including a stall with delicious mochi.. our favourite)
Nara
(approx. 1hr train ride from Kyoto)
- We recommend a day trip to Nara from Kyoto (or Osaka)
- An area famous for its wild roaming deer
- You can buy deer crackers from vendors in the park to attract the deers to you (but be careful some of them can get a little impatient while waiting for you to get your perfect instagram snap haha)
- There are beautiful shrines in the area to explore as well
- We went to a “trendy” bar in Nara called Lights Bar and the main town is really lovely to walk around as well
Nanzen-ji
- A temple ground in Kyoto that has multiple temples, beautiful gardens and a really interesting (and aesthetically pleasing) brick aqueduct
- We recommend going to Blue Bottle Kyoto on your way to Nanzen-ji as it is close-by
Fushimi Inari Taisha
- When researching about places to visit in Kyoto, this seems to be one of the first to come up each time with thousands of eye-catching orange gates creating walk ways.
- The Fushimi Inari Shrine is an important Shinto shrine and is dedicated to Inari, the God of rice, so we think thats extra important!
- The walk ways lead to areas of prayer and areas to hang your wishes. This area also had the best street food selection we saw on our trip! We tried everything! (Gyoza, yakitori, mocha, karage chicken… you name it!)
- There is also a delicious coffee shop in the area called Vermillion
Walk around Gion
- Gion is the famous Geisha district of Kyoto, overflowing with teahouses, speciality restaurants and stunning traditional wooden machiya buildings
- We would highly recommend staying in this area, but if you don’t we recommend coming to visit!
- Walk around town, duck into the tiny restaurants for something to eat and keep your eye out for Geishas wandering at sunset
Dandelion Chocolate
The San Francisco chocolatiers have a store in Kyoto. You can try all their different chocolates, have crazy (yummy) hot chocolates and buy lots of bars to take home!
We didn’t do this but we hear it’s good
Water temple
Kiyomiza-dera temple
Kinkaka-Ji temple
Kyoto bike tours
Tea ceremony
Railway Museum
NAOSHIMA ISLAND
* We spent 2 night here *
We stayed at Naoshima Island for 2 nights and it just wasn’t long enough! Naoshima is a bit of trek to get to… train, ferry, shuttle bus so we felt like 1 full day on the ground just wasn’t long enough!
Also, being Winter, when we went it was really quiet however it also meant that a few of the museums were closed. So we would probably go back in the warmer months next time.
Naoshima Island is really easy to get around. There are regular ticketed shuttles that run around the island and there are free shuttles that go from Tsutsujiso to Benesse House. You can also hire bikes from multiple places to get around.
Stay
Tsutsujiso
- Very affordable, low key accommodation
- Traditional accommodation, sleep on futons on tatami mats
- Great location as the island shuttle bus stops out the front and there is a free shuttle bus from Tsutsujiso to Benesse House
We didn’t stay here but we hear it’s good
Benesse House
- Benesse House was closed while we were there (closed each year for maintenance during January)
- Benesse House is an architecturally beautiful hotel with multiple museums on the grounds, restaurants and a spa
- Definitely the more expensive option on Naoshima island
Eat/drink
Konichiwa Cafe
- Very cute cafe!
- Great spot for a drink, delicious food and very cosy inside!
Okonomiyaki Umikko
- A no frills okonomiyaki restaurant, delicious Japanese pancakes
Museum Cafe
- We had a really tasty pumpkin soup at the Museum Cafe at Benesse Museum.
We didn’t eat/drink here but we hear it’s good
Museum Restaurant Issen
- Japanese restaurant at Benesse House
- Unfortunately couldn’t go as its adults only
Terrace Restaurant
- Fine dining restaurant at Benesse House
Do
Benesse House Museum
- Beautiful museum with lots of contemporary works a short shuttle from Benesse house
Art House Projects
- 6 houses around town that have been converted into exhibits
- At the information centre you can buy a ticket to access all 6 houses
Ando Museum
- A museum dedicated to the architect, Ando, who designed Benesse House and most of the museums at Naoshima.
- If you like concrete architecture, its a dream!
Check out the island’s two famous pumpkins
- The pumpkins by Yayoi Kusama, a Japanese artist, are definitely the most iconic art pieces at Naoshima
- The yellow pumpkin is near Benesse House and the red is near the ferry terminal
We didn’t do this but we hear it’s good
Chi Chu Museum
- This museum is meant to be incredible but was closed when we were there
Bike rides around the island
HAKUBA
* We spent 4 nights here *
A two hour shinkansen (bullet train) ride from Tokyo to Nagano, then a 1.5 hour bus ride.
Compared to other ski areas I have been to, Hakuba is very spread out. So if you are going to Hakuba with other families or friends I would recommend making sure that you are staying in the same area, as it can be quite difficult to get around.
Stay
Hakuba Cortina Lodge
- A simple lodge in the Cortina area
- We had a great stay here, there is a restaurant and bar attached to the lodge
- Only downside is that there isn’t a whole lot going on in Cortina and it is a fair distance from Happo and the main areas
Eat/drink
Heidi’s
- Great restaurant on the main run in Cortina
- Delicious ramen and katsu curry
Lantern restaurant
- A delicious restaurant that specialises in sukiyaki
The Rabbit Hole
- Great bar in Wadano, very Australian but a great vibe
Do
Explore the different mountains
- We spent most of our days skiing/snowbaording at Hakuba Norikura and Hakuba Cortina
- We also spent one day at Tsugaike. We loved our time here as the runs are really long and there is a gondola rather than a chairlift that takes you up. There is also a really cute tent half way up Tsugaike that you can cook sausages, smores etc. over a fire in the snow and theres lots of different ski mobiles for kids to hire too.
Gravity
- Check out the Gravity store in Happo. An incredible Northface retail store with a cafe upstairs.
TOKYO
* We spent 8 nights here *
A city that needs little introduction!
The busiest city in the world!
It is truly an incredible place, a place that has something for everyone!
If you have time to spare in Tokyo, I would recommend tackling a different area each day as they all are so unique! (i.e. Shinjuku/Omotesando one day, Shibuya one day, Daikanyama one day, Ginza one day etc…)
Stay
Hotel Knot, Shinjuku
- We loved our stay at this hotel!
- Really well priced, decent size room, good buffet breakfast, bakery in the lobby (dangerous but yum) and only approx. 700m walk to Shinjuku station!
We didn’t stay here but we hear it’s good
Aman Tokyo
- Okay, we didn’t stay here because its $1500-2000 AUD per night! But no judgement if you do! Its meant to be one of the best hotels in the world!
Hoshinoya Tokyo
- Your stay at Hoshinoya is meant to be an absolutely incredible cultural experience and looks very luxurious
Trunk Hotel
- We dined at the restaurant at this hotel and went to the bar and both were great
- It is in an excellent location in Omotesando
- Unfortunately, when we went to book there was only one suite left which was about $15,000 AUD for our stay, so that was a no from us!
Eat/drink
Koffee Mameya
(Omotesando)
- An amazing coffee experience for the true fans of black coffee! (NB: no milk!)
- A retail coffee store by Omotesando Koffee in the most beautiful little store.
- Pick your coffee depending on your preferred roast (light to dark).
Lunette Tokyo
(Shinjuku)
- One of our most memorable meals of the trip
- Tiny, unassuming restaurant with 2 staff members serving natural wines with Italian style cuisine!!
Itchiran Ramen
(Shinjuku, Shibuya, Minato)
- With many locations around Tokyo, Ichiran is a ramen institution! But not for no good reason!
- Your classic ramen where you have to queue, order on a vending machine, eat in a little booth and get out once you are finished! Don’t worry though, the ramen is really really worth it!
Bills
(Omotesando + Ginza)
- The Aussie Chef, Bill Granger, has got two locations in Tokyo
- Both are great if you are craving a Western breakfast, and PSA: he is known for his pancakes!
- But a warning, it is a pretty pricey breakfast
Katsukura
(Shinjuku)
- The best katsu pork I have ever had!
- Don’t be fooled by the fact you are in shopping centre, the food is seriously good!
- Expect to wait a bit for a table!
Kafe Kitsune
(Omotesando)
- Originating in France, Kafe Kitsune in Tokyo is a lovely place for a coffee, a baguette or a sweet treat
- Be careful the front entrance is very easy to walk right by!
Sunrise Shack
(Shibuya)
- The people who brought you the Sunrise Shack smoothie and acai bowls in a bright yellow van on the North Shore in Hawaii, bring you the exact same thing in the middle of the city in Tokyo!
- The sunshiney van is completely out of place but that makes it even better
- We had some sort of coconut cacao drink and it was so delicious!!
Luke’s Lobster
(Omotesando)
- Seriously delicious takeaway lobster rolls!
Harajuku Gyoza-Ro
(Harajuku)
- Yummy gyoza, but thats all they’ve got so have it as a snack haha!
Trunk Hotel Restaurant
(Omotesando)
- Really delicious American style semi-dressy restaurant at Trunk Hotel
- Also make sure you have a drink at their bar while you are there!
Fuglen Tokyo
(Shibuya)
- Originally a coffee company from Norway serving delicious coffee in a retro, homely cafe
About Life Coffee
(Shibuya)
- Really cute hole in the wall coffee shop, delivering the goods
King George
(Daikanyama)
- Epic deli style sandwiches!!
Afuri
(Shinjuku, Roppongi, multiple locations)
- Really tasty ramen!
Whoopi Goldburger
(Shibuya)
- A burger shop, with that name… need we say more??
Maisen tonkatsu
(Shibuya, Aoyama)
- Really delicious katsu, very popular!!
JBS (Jazz, Blues, Soul)
(Shibuya)
- A must if you are able to enjoy the nightlife of Tokyo
- A jazz bar owned by a 70 something year old local man who bartends and DJs
- The walls are covered in thousands of records
Mr. Farmer
(Omotesando, Shinjuku, multiple other locations)
- For when you are feeling like a simple, healthy, Western breakfast
Do
Borderless
- An overwhelming but amazing exhibition of lights by different artists
- Highly recommend buying tickets before you go as they can often be sold out on the day and recommend going early in the day
Day in Daikanyama
- Such a beautiful area, only 10 to 15 minutes from Shibuya
- We went on a sunny day it was a truly magical town. Still lots to see but away from the hustle and bustle
- Make sure while you are there you check out Saturday’s NYC for a coffee and a shop
- Then head to Tsutaya (T-site) to witness the most epic book/magazine store I have ever seen!
- And then on to King George for an amazing sandwich
- We didn’t get there but the Spring Valley Brewery is meant to be great here too
Wander around Omotesando
- Definitely our favourite area of Tokyo
- So many great cafes, flagship stores, vintage stores and stunning architecture
Marvel at Takeshita St Harajuku
- Takeshita (yes LOL), in Harajuku is a sensory overload
- The street is lined with stereotypical OTT Japanese stuff! Hello Kitty, out there street wear, photo booths etc.
- Make sure you go to one of the photo booth stores for some crazy “kawaii” pictures!!
Go shopping at Dover Street Markets
- Not that I could really afford anything in there Dover Street Markets in Ginza are amazing for some window shopping!
- Luxury brands show their street wear collections (i.e. Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada etc.) alongside “cool” street brands such as Acne, Supreme, Comme Des Garcons
- The visual merchandising and store fit outs are amazing too
- For when you are over shopping there is Rose Bakery on the top floor
Rag Tag
(Omotesando, Shinjuku)
- An incredible store selling second hand luxury goods!
Meiji Shrine + Yoyogi Park
- Yoyogi park is a beautiful park in the middle of the city
- On Sunday’s this area is especially interesting with locals practicing their dance moves, families gathering, young kids dressed in traditional rest to pray at the shrine
- And it will always hold a special place in our hearts as Poppy took her first steps here
Shibuya Crossing
- The busiest crossing in the world! 2,500 people cross with every change of lights.
- You can get a good (free) view of the crossing in action from the Starbucks that overlooks it
Discover Koto (for coffee lovers)
- For coffee lovers, the Koto area is where a lot of the roasteries in Tokyo are located
- Within a small radius, you can find Blue Bottle’s, All Press’ and Single O’s roasteries!
- If you visit Blue Bottle first, they have a map of the roasters in the region!
Tsujiki
- While the fish markets have moved there is still reason to visit Tsujiki
- They still have amazing sashimi and sushi restaurants here
- But the real reason we found ourselves here was to go knife shopping!! Kitchen knives that is!
Golden Gai
(Shinjuku)
- A district of 200+ bars, all seating approx. 5-8 people each
- The bars are all different styles.
- Don’t both paying entry for bars just go into the ones with no fee
Yakitori lane (aka. Piss Alley or Memory Lane)
(Shinjuku)
- A lane full of small yakitori restaurants
- Good if feeling adventurous (i.e. horse meat, chicken sashimi)
Metropolitan Government building
(Shinjuku)
- A great spot to get a good view of the city on a clear day AND free of charge
If you have any questions please comment below!
Thanks for reading along,